Dirty, long and intricately pinned hair with a ton of pomade? Antoine told them enough. First there was washing, then the scissors were in motion. In the meantime - shock, cry, disbelief. Effect? The women came out rejuvenated, completely changed. A whole gallery of fame has passed through the Polish salon in Paris.
Before he became the "champion Antoin de Paris", to whom the biggest stars stood in the queue, he was only Antek Cierplikowski. A poor boy from Sieradz, only 17 years old, set out to conquer Paris with one miserable suitcase in his hand. Within a few years, he turned the hairdressing industry upside down. He dictated women from all over the world how to cut, comb and dye their hair, imposed makeup trends and created the image of the stars of the silver screen.
Ève Lavallière, or ticket to fame
Before young Antoine became the "King of Hairdressers," to whom the queues of celebrities were lining, there was still a long way to go. The turning point was one event - the challenge of styling the outstanding French actress so that the over 40-year-old woman could see a young and fresh girl.
Antoine shocked not only with the hairstyles of women who cut and combed, but also with their outfits. Here in a Persian prince costume.
This task could only be performed by Antoine. He did it with a cut the world had not seen before. The famous à la garçonne hairstyle ("Tomboy") she conquered Paris , ensured Ève Lavallière a triumphant return, and Cierplikowski - crowds of customers. His feat went down in the history of fashion, and the year 1909 is still considered a breakthrough for women's hairstyles.
Coco Chanel - difficult friendship
Coco Chanel insisted that she cut her hair herself in 1917 on impulse. It is hard to believe, however - such an ideal "tomboy" could only come from master Antoine. Chanel certainly helped in promoting it, because the new hairstyle was extremely flattering. However, she had quite strange relations with Cierplikowski, probably with the jealousy of the young designer. As Marta Orzeszyna writes in the book Antoine Cierplikowski - the king of hairdressers, the hairdresser of kings:
She seemed to be jealous of his professional and social success and the adoration of the famous hairdresser. Women didn't like Coco, even though they loved her outfits, but they loved Antoine like a best friend.
The article is based on the book by Marta Orzeszyna entitled "Antoine Cierplikowski. The king of hairdressers, the hairdresser of kings ”(Znak Horyzont 2015).
There was no shortage of good designers in Paris at the time, and Antoine was only one and everyone adored him. The fame he enjoyed was then not even dreamed of by Coco.
Daisy Fellowes - the fashion world oracle
Lady Daisy Fellowes was the editor-in-chief of the French edition of Harper's Bazaar and proudly wore not only a short haircut but also the title of the most elegant woman in the world. One can only imagine the influence it had in the French high society. When it came to issues of fashion or beauty trends or the limits of good taste, all eyes were on her.
Daisy posed in Antoine's wigs and hairstyles for "Vogue", and at her oriental ball she asked the master to make makeup for the invited ladies. It was something new, because until now blush and lipstick had been an attribute of fallen women. Antoine proved a successful make up is make up natural and adapted to the time of day and occasion.
Is that the perfect à la garçonne haircut could it have come from someone other than Master Antoine?
Mata Hari - average beauty and that's it
One of the most famous clients of the "King of Hairdressers" was Mata Hari. Master Antoine completely did not understand its phenomenon - just stripping naked - a cheap catch and that's all . He described Mata's beauty as very average, he appreciated only her skin tone. He combed her at home as she prepared to become an exotic Java dancer.
Bette Davis, or Hollywood opens its doors
In 1933, Hollywood claimed the "king of hairdressers". Antoine was specially invited by Warner Bros. to create the image of up-and-coming young actress Bette Davis.
The cooperation resulted not only in a stage success (Bette received an Oscar two years later), but also in many years of friendship. The actress and Antoine often went out to restaurants together, they even planned to open a store in Hollywood with exclusive dresses, hats and cosmetics.
Brigitte Bardot - sometimes you don't need to change much
Master Antoine met the divine Brigitte when, as a ballet school student, she used to come with her mother to the salon in Cannes. He had a distinct weakness for her and was one of the few women who did not propose short hair. In his opinion, the controlled disorder was supposed to emphasize the unrivaled beauty of the star, which is why he left her hairstyle almost uninterrupted, giving her hair only volume and shine. As we read in Marta Orzeszyna, Bardotka:"He liked what she was, but he criticized her imitators, who had neither her unrivaled beauty nor her class".
Zelda Fitzgerald - "tomboy" conquers America
Antoine created a hairstyle for American writer Zelda Fitzgerald that suited her perfectly, and she loved it. She liked to say that because of his great love for peony, Antoine cut her hair à la pivoine . Liberated and independent Zelda was the perfect tomboy and popularized the new fashion overseas where tomboys were called flappers (flapper).
Mata Hari - cheap catch and that's it?
Zelda's husband, Francis Scott Fitzgerald, dedicated the song "Berenice Bobs Her Hair" to the new fashion. Even so, in the US, many saw short hair in women as evidence of a complete lack of morality, and there were even calls for wives and daughters to be locked in their homes so that they could not avail themselves of the devil's hairdresser.
Eleanor Roosevelt - First Lady is shocking
There has not been a first lady with short hair in the White House since the founding of the United States. In 1938, this tradition was ended by Eleanor Roosevelt. She chose a "tomboy" hairstyle, which in her case turned out to be a real bull's eye.
The spouse of the president came to the salon in person and patiently waited for her turn with the other clients. She showed class and rubbed the nose of all rich ladies who demanded special treatment.
The new hairstyle of the First Lady delighted the president himself and was very positively received by the immediate surroundings of the presidential couple and the whole nation. The attacks by conservative Americans on Antoine, which had been going on for years, ended. Cierplikowski could finally recognize the States as conquered.
Josephine Baker - Black Venus de Paris
Josephine Baker, who was then in the then-hit "La Revue nègre" ("Negro Revue"), came to Antoine almost immediately after arriving in Paris, when it was decided that her career must take on a greater class. To the "king of hairdressers" she owed a sexy, short hairstyle with heavily smoothed hair.
One glance was enough - and the master already knew what Black Venus should look like and working with her gave him a lot of satisfaction. For over a decade, all of her photoshoots used nothing but Antoine's hairstyles and wigs. Josephine called him "The Great Wizard." About his ideas and the effects of work on one of the surviving fitting films, he says:"Such things only in Paris".
After visiting Antoine, Eleanor Roosevelt (left) was already wearing short hair constantly.
Wallis Simpson - new image of the Duchess
Cierplikowski's client was also Wallis Simpson, the lover of the King of the United Kingdom, Edward VIII and the reason for his abdication. She found herself in Antoine's chair before she met the heir to the British throne. She wanted a change and was looking for her style, so she went to the salon of the "king of hairdressers" - and it was a bull's eye.
Antoine commented on her hair style so far with the sentence:"This hairstyle is perfect for riding" and created a hairstyle especially for her, which has since become a trademark of the future Duchess of Windsor.
The master parted her long hair with a part and smoothed it along the line of her face. Along the long, slim cheeks Wallis arranged them in delicate waves, giving the face character and individual features. She kept this style of hair throughout her life, visiting the master's Parisian salon regularly.
Wallis also appeared in Cannes, once with her future husband, the Duke of Windsor, who patiently waited for his beloved in the garden. When asked by Antoine if he was tired of waiting, he was told that his beloved's happiness was worth it.
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Antoine Cierplikowski has been combing Hollywood stars, rulers, first ladies and celebrities for six decades. He dictated new trends and was always able to convince his clients to seemingly crazy ideas. He was an artist and a visionary. No wonder the women put themselves in his skilled hands. He was able to bring out their true beauty.
Source
Marta Orzeszyna, Antoine Cierplikowski. King of hairdressers, hairdresser of kings , Znak Horyzont, Krakow 2015.
Editing:Roman Sidorski, photo edition:Roman Sidorski