D n the South of France, Arcs-sur-Argens , “Leis Arc in Provençal, is a small town in the Var, a member of the Dracénoise Agglomeration Community. This small Provençal town with undeniable charms contains within it a dense and captivating history, as well as a small jewel:its medieval village, called the “Parage”. In this article, the aim is to provide you with the main characteristics of the history of Les Arcs. And who knows, maybe you'll want to discover this unmissable place later...
Les Arcs:a rich past
The Bows is a town that can be proud of a rich past. Everything begins, in reality, in protohistory. Not far from Argens, in the place called the "Touar marshes", prehistorians and archaeologists have found traces of human occupation dating from the first Iron Age, around 1000 BC. The presence of men, in the 6th and 5th centuries BC, was organized around this marshy area, which today is located south of the current village. According to Jacques Berato and Vincent Krol, authors of the article “Occupation of the First Iron Age. Le Touar, Les Arcs-sur-Argens, Var”, published in the journal Prehistory Anthropology Mediterranean , it is then a permanent habitat, open and grouped, where men use the techniques which are those of the Bronze Age, halfway between pastoralism and work of bronze objects. In this sector, two huts were found, as well as a permanent habitat, not far from there. The story of Les Arcs can begin.
In reality, it really began in the Middle Ages, and more precisely in the Carolingian era. Archaeological traces of a 9th century villa have also been found in the town. In 1038 La Celle-Roubaud abbey, a listed historic monument, was built to the east of the current village. Later became the Sainte-Roseline Chapel, named after the local saint to whom the "miracle of the rose" was attributed, it contains a mosaic by Marc Chagall made in 1975 , The Meal of the Angels . The “mummy” of Sainte Roseline is still visible in the chapel, and is placed in a crystal chase. Her eyes are preserved in a reliquary – which had aroused the curiosity of Louis XIV's doctor, who went to the scene to examine the body of the saint, reputed to be in excellent condition despite the three centuries which separated her death from the saint of his visit, and who put out one of the two eyes, thus testifying to their incredible preservation.
It was at the beginning of the 13th century that the situation of the Arcs , then called "Castrum de Arcubus changed. The Villeneuves – or Villanova –, Catalan lords, take possession of the place, and this until the XVIIᵉ century. They undertake the construction of the castle, on a rocky peak, which dominates the entire plain of Arcs – the view is also magnificent. During the 13th century, the keep was built, wrongly called the “Saracen Tower” by the locals, as well as the Notre-Dame church, which has since become the Saint-Pierre-du-Parage chapel. Almost at the same time, in 1201 , settled the first lord of Les Arcs, Géraud de Villeneuve (Gerald de Villanova in Catalan). He received this territory as a reward for the services he rendered to the Crown of Aragon.
The medieval village is gradually being fortified. In the 17th century, and more precisely in 1662 , a campanile was built. Nevertheless, the French Revolution had harmful consequences for the medieval castle, since it was decided, by Barras, to destroy it pure and simple. The Arcs tower, which corresponds to the medieval keep, and which can still be seen today, could nevertheless be saved, thanks to the initiative of Victor Grand, a native of the village and secretary of Barras. From then on, the Revolution having done its work, the medieval village was gradually abandoned, in favor of dwellings located below, on the outskirts of Réal.
Heritage preservation
Thus, it was not until the 20th century, and more specifically the 1960s, that enthusiasts and admirers of the village undertook the renovation of the place. The medieval quarter resumes its name of “Parage”, a word that would come from the Occitan “paratge “, used to define a district inhabited exclusively by the “elites” of the seigniory, to differentiate the castle from less “noble” dwellings. This phenomenon is interesting to observe, since the restoration of the place was precisely undertaken by people who had the financial and intellectual means to do so.
Gradually, over the years, the medieval village took on new colors, to the point of becoming, in the 1980s and 1990s, an indisputable place of tourism in the Var center. Today, the circulation of vehicles is prohibited there, and this is a real pleasure. This district has become a real haven of peace, where it is good to walk, or even to let yourself get lost. Time seems to no longer exist in this place.
When discussing the restoration and preservation of this priceless local heritage, the initiatives of the “Friends of the Parage », cultural association created in 1989 , which aims to research, enhance and protect the culture of Arcs-sur-Argens . Chaired by Edmond Gaudin, this association is very active, particularly with the scientific and historical community.
She thus published, in 1995 , a work entitled Les Arcs-sur-Argens. Pages of history of a Provençal terroir , distinguished by the Caisse Nationale des Monuments Historiques. The “Friends of the Parage also contributed to the restoration of the Clock Tower in 1995 – in other words, the campanile – but also the medieval well. The latest initiative concerns the creation of a “Maison de l’Histoire des Arcs”, in collaboration with the municipality. In this "small museum", consisting of two rooms, you can rediscover the history of the town through two favorite periods, namely the medieval period and the French Revolution. For visiting hours, I advise you to follow this link.
“Les Médiévales”:immerse yourself in the medieval atmosphere
The “Friends of the Parage were not the only ones to embark on the preservation and enhancement of the local historical and cultural heritage. Another association, entitled “Les Médiévales », chaired by Georges Yévadian, organizes medieval festivals every two years, the « Festes du Castrum d’Arcus ". The next ones, entitled "Le chant des cicadas », and dealing with the destinies of the four daughters of Count Raimond Bérenger V, who became queens of the four most coveted kingdoms in Europe, will take place on Friday 6 , Saturday 7 , Sunday 8 and Monday, July 9, 2012 – they were postponed due to the floods of June 2010 , which ravaged the town center of Arcs-sur-Argens .
For four days, the city then goes back to medieval times:setting up an authentic market, various and varied demonstrations, firing of war machines, parades costumes, troupes and life camp, street performances, etc. A night show, animated for nearly two hours by a hundred actors, extras and stuntmen on horses, is also presented to visitors. « The Medieval » also organize, during the summer, nocturnal guided tours of the city, by torchlight. The association has become a real model of success in this area throughout the south-east of France, and many cities have embarked on similar undertakings. It also organizes a biennial, a “Medieval Book Fair .
Among his projects, we could retain that of the "Road of the Knights ". It is a question, on the model of the medieval adventure of Pouzauges, of creating thematic circuits, punctuated with enigmas, aiming to discover or rediscover this local heritage, in a playful and didactic way. Here is the description of the circuit, made by the association "Les Médiévales » :« Assigned by Hélion de Villeneuve, the visitor and all of his family will have to fulfill a mission and to do so, travel through the fief of the lord. The subjects will present themselves at the tourist office to obtain a guide document (including the path to follow, the questions and riddles, etc.) then, once their "quests" have been completed, the adults will receive a reward and the children will be dubbed. »
I hope this short article has aroused in you the desire to visit this little historical and cultural gem, located in the heart of the Var. If you are passing through the South of France, you have no excuse not to go there, since the train, the motorway and the road can take you there! Similarly, the medieval village can be seen from all the means of transport mentioned above... See you soon in Arcs-sur-Argens , and do not hesitate to meet Mr. Gaudin, president of the association of “Amis du Parage », which prowls daily in the small alleys of the medieval quarter …
To go further
- BERATO Jacques, KROL Vincent, “Occupation of the First Iron Age. The Touar, Les Arcs-sur-Argens, Var”, in Mediterranean Prehistory Anthropology , 6 (1997), p.27-34.
- SAUZE Élisabeth, Les Arcs-sur-Argens. Pages in the history of a region Provencal , Les Arcs-sur-Argens, Friends of the area, 1995.
- "Amis du Parage" website.
- “Medieval” website.